Prambanan : The Exotic Structure of the Past

Prambanan is a complex of ancient Hindu temples in Central Java, Indonesia.

Prambanan is a collection of massive Hindu temples (candi) built by the Mataram Kingdom, rulers of central Java and defeaters of the Sailendra Dynasty.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, in almost any other country a magnificent ancient monument on the scale of Prambanan would quickly be designated a national symbol. In Indonesia though it is somewhat overshadowed by the even more awe-inspiring nature of nearby Borobudur. The two sites are quite different in style with Hindu Prambanan being a collection of sharp, jaggedly sculpted towers in contrast to the vast horizontal bulk of Buddhist Borobudur.

Prambanan can be fairly easily covered on foot. If the midday heat is too much, a toy train shuttles around the park (free of charge for foreigners, Rp 5,000 for locals).

The main site of modern day Prambanan complex is inside a large, landscaped park. The complex is open daily from 6AM to 6PM/entrance ticket box closed at 17:15. Try to get there early to beat the heat. Entry costs Indonesians less than $4, while foreigners are charged a fixed tourist rate of US$18 (162,000 Rp) or US$9 /Rp81.000 for a registered student. Overseas visitors can also purchase ticket on the net via kiostix.com. There is a separate entrance for foreigners with a much shorter queue. Entry ticket also entitles you to complimentary tea/coffee/water. A sarung is provided upon entry.

Guides can be hired at the ticket office for about US$8 (75,000 rp) and as this is a complex monument, a guide is a very good idea.

• Candi Lara (Loro) Jonggrang, or simply Candi Prambanan, is the largest and most-visited of the temples just to the left of the main entrance. While there were 240 temples originally built, most have long since crumbled and the main remaining attractions are the six temples of the central court, richly decorated with carved reliefs. Three of them, known as the Trimurti ("three sacred places"), are particularly important: 
  • Candi Siva, dedicated to Shiva the Destroyer, is the largest of the six, rising to a height of 47 meters. There are fine reliefs of the Ramayana in its forecourt and four chambers with statues. The largest chamber, to the east, contains a statue of Shiva himself, while the south has the sage Agastya, the west his son Ganesh (the elephant-headed) and the north his wife Durga. Durga is also known as Lara Jonggrang ("Slender Virgin"), a legendary beautiful princess turned to stone (see box).  
  
  
  
  • Candi Brahma, to the south, continues the story of the Ramayana and has a statue of Brahma the Creator inside.
  • Candi Vishnu, to the north, tells the story of Vishnu's avatar Krishna and has a statue of Vishnu the Preserver inside.
  • Opposite the three large temples are three smaller temples originally dedicated to the vehicles of the gods. Only the statue of Nandi, Shiva's bull, has survived.

• Candi Lumbung and Candi Bubrah, two Buddhist temples, are located several hundred meters further north. They lie in ruins and are fenced off.also candi sewu has 249 temples (the most are ruins)in the north side in tte park.

• Candi Sewu, a large Buddhist temple complex meaning "one thousand temples", is one kilometre north of the entrance gate and contains a large central temple surrounded by a cluster of smaller ones. The sheer size of the recently renovated and intricately decorated central temple is impressive but the statue niches are all empty. Take note of the Borobudur style stupas here. Entrance from the east side only. 
  

• Prambanan Museum. North of Candi Lara Jonggrang is a poorly displayed museum laid out in a series of small houses connected by walkways. Explanations are minimal, but entry is free so you might as well take a look.

• Prambanan Audio Visual, inside the museum grounds, is the park's term for screenings of a film entitled "Cosmic Harmony", which lambasts the "industrial world" in general (and Jakarta in particular), and gives a fairly basic explanation of the Prambanan site. Still, it makes for a fairly entertaining half-hour break, also being air-conditioned and free of charge for foreigners (Rp 5,000 for locals). The film is available in several languages. 

Around Prambanan

Other than temples within Prambanan archaeological park (Prambanan, Lumbung, Bubrah, and Sewu temples) there are also other less visited and less touristy temples around Prambanan plain. If you interested in ancient Javanese temple architecture, the off the beaten path temples on hill tops or in the middle of rice paddy through villages might interest you. After your visit to Prambanan, the Prambanan Archaeological park offer the group tour to these outlying temples, especially Ratu Boko. However if you prefer going on your own, rent and riding andong horse carriage (you must state the destination, for example Plaosan temple, and bargain for the price), or by taxi (if you took one from Yogyakarta earlier that has been waiting for you since there is no taxi around Prambanan area), or by daily rented car if you rent one earlier in Yogyakarta.
The entrance of these minor temples are guarded by archaeology bureau authorities. They will hand you guest book and expect you to fill your identity: name, origin, and your oppinion. It is for statistic purpose on visitors data of each temples. There is no specific ticket rate to enter these temples (except of Ratu Boko), however the temple guard might expect donation, although you are not obliged to, paying Rp 5,000 (US$ 0.5) in these sites is sufficient.

• Candi Plaosan. This Buddhist temple is about 2 km east of the northern edge of Prambanan park complex and is easily walkable from there. There are two large stuctures - Plaosan Lor (north) and Plaosan Kidul (south). This complex gives a good insight into the close relationship between Hinduism and Buddhism in 9th century Java. Buddhist Plaosan was built during the same reign as Candi Loro Jonggrang. The Hindu king at the time had a Buddhist wife. There are some excellent intact reliefs and statues of Boddhisattvas here although most of the statuary was looted long ago. 
  

• Candi Sojiwan. A buddhist temple with architecture similar to Mendut temple near Borobudur. The temple reconstruction completed on December 2011. The main chamber is empty. Located in a village 1.5 kilometers south from Prambanan between Prambanan and Ratu Boko.

• Kraton Ratu Boko, south of Prambanan (take the minor road from Prambanan towards Piyungan and this palace is on your left after about 3 km), is a ruined palace or temple of uncertain origin, located on a hilltop 200 metres above the Prambanan plain (which makes for good pictures if and only if you have a zoom lens). Only some building foundations remain and it's difficult to make any sense of the site. Now incorporated into the Borobudur Park Authority, entry to Ratu Boko is a separately charged US$10.

• Candi Barong and Candi Banyunibo. Candi Barong is located east of Ratu Boko on neighboring hill top, while Banyunibo is on the valley nearby. Barong is a Hindu temple on stone platform on the hill overlook the valley, while Banyunibo is Buddhist temple. Ask for the information and direction in Ratu Boko park authority. Take the village road southeast from Ratu Boko around 1.5 kilometers.

• Candi Ijo located further 4 kilometers southeast from Ratu Boko. The Hindu temple houses a large Linggam and Yoni symbol of Shiva. The temple is consists of one main temple with three lesser temple. Because it is located on hill top on another hill and quite remote, it is advisable to reach these temples with taxi (from Yogyakarta) or rented car.

• Candi Kalasan. This Buddhist temple is the oldest temple in Prambanan plain located 3 kilometers west of Prambanan. Take the main road from Prambanan heading back towards Yogyakarta, after 3 kilometers the temple can be seen easily on south (left) side of the road. It is the oldest temple in Prambanan plain. According to Kalasan inscription, it was built to honor Tara, a female boddhisattva. The temple throne is now empty, statue of Tara probably made from bronze and have been looted for scrap metals for centuries, however the carvings of boddhisttvas is interesting.

• Candi Sari. This Buddhist temple was the vihara (temple as well as lodging) for Buddhist monks. Located just several hundreds meters north from of Kalasan temple in a walking distance. Just cross the main road to north side, walk east heading to Prambanan direction, after several hundred meters turn left into small village road and heading north until the temple is visible. The carving of Taras and Boddhisattvas are exquisite. Examine the winged human celestial creature similar to angels on northern wall. The temple was originally coated by white plaster called 'vajralepa'. The temple is originally two storey, with upper deck was made from wooden structure, the remnant of place to hold wooden beams can be seen.

• Candi Sambisari. This Hindu temple pre-dates Prambanan by about 30 years and was only discovered as recently as 1966 and is remarkably complete. Some archaeologists speculate that it is part of a yet to be discovered, much larger complex which lies hidden under centuries of volcanic ash and earth on the Prambanan Plain. Take the main road from Prambanan heading back towards Yogyakarta. When you reach the village of Sambisari, turn north (right) and follow the small road to the end.

Travelling Through The Past : Borobudur

Borobudur is a Buddhist stupa and temple complex in Central Java, Indonesia dating from the 8th century, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is one of world's truly great ancient monuments, the single largest Buddhist structure anywhere on earth, and few who visit fail to be taken by both the scale of place, and the remarkable attention to detail that went into the construction. Set as it is in the heart of the verdant Kedu Plain, the backdrop of mighty active volcanoes only enhances the sense of awe and drama.

Borobudur consists of six square platforms topped by three circular platforms, and is decorated with no less than 2,672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues of various types. The main dome, located at the centre of the top platform, is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues seated inside perforated stupas. The square base is 118 m (387 ft) long on each side, and the highest point 35 m (114 ft) above ground level.

The whole monument is constructed from dark grey andesite stone, and so synonymous has this become with Borobudur and other temples on the Kedu Plain, that Indonesian for the material is simply batu candi (temple stone).

 
Climbing the structure takes a little bit of effort, and the dark stone absorbs the sun's heat rapidly to make walking and climbing quite hot work by early afternoon. If you have but modest stamina or heat tolerance, you should start as early in the day as possible, and take plenty of water with you. Some free bottled water and coffee usually comes with the ticket for international visitors.

The single stupendously large structure can be divided into layers as follows:

• The platform or foot at the base of the structure, which was clearly post the original construction and hides some reliefs, is of uncertain provenance and function. The main theories are that the platform was added to censor reliefs depicting earthly desires or — rather more likely — to buttress the subsiding structure and prevent it from collapsing. A section of the platform has been excavated at the southeast corner, showcasing some of the hidden reliefs underneath.

• The bulk of the structure consists of six square terraces connected by steep staircases. Each terrace has reliefs in two layers on both sides, recounting the story of the Buddha's past lives and his enlightenment. The correct way to view the reliefs is to start from the east gate (the main entrance) and circulate clockwise.

• Above the square terraces, the structure suddenly opens up to reveal the final three circular terraces. Comparatively plain and unadorned, there are no more reliefs here just seventy two lattice work stupas — domes housing half-hidden Buddha statues (many headless, some lost entirely). A bombing some years ago destroyed nine of them, but they have been well restored.

• The peak of the structure is a central stupa. The two chambers inside the stupa are empty, and it is unclear whether they were empty from the beginning as a representation of nirvana, or whether they originally contained statues which were looted or lost. The site museum contains what might be a missing statue.

The monument's three divisions (the square terraces and central stupa at the peak are regarded as one division) symbolise the three realms of Buddhist cosmology, namely Kamadhatu (the world of desires), Rupadhatu (the world of forms), and finally Arupadhatu (the formless world).

There are six different postures of Buddha's statue from the bottom level to the top. These are contact with earth, giving and helping, meditation, fearlesness, teach and learn, and finally turning the wheel of dharma.

The wall reliefs

You can think of Borobudur as a very large teaching graphic recounting the life story of the Buddha, his teachings and his progress towards Nirvana. If you want to truly understand the reliefs, it is best to employ a guide to explain the stories to you.

In summary, the 2,760 reliefs tell four key sets of stories in the form of carved illustrations and Sanskrit inscriptions:

• The law of karma or Karmavibhangga. These are mostly hidden by the post-original construction masking at the foot of the monument. The reliefs tell stories and give examples of the nature of karma with depictions of both praiseworthy (including co-operative working practices and planned parenthood) and blameworthy (including torture, rape and theft) activities. The masking was disassembled in 1890 before being painstakingly rebuilt, and photographs were taken of the reliefs at this time. These photographs are displayed in the Borobudur Museum.

• The birth of Buddha or Lalitavistara. Before the story starts, there are 27 panels showing preparations for the final earthly incarnation. The story then begins with the descent of the Lord Buddha from heaven, and continues until his first earthly sermon as Prince Siddhartha.

• The Jatakas and avadanas. Jatakas are stories about the Buddha before he was born as Prince Siddhartha. Avadanas are similar to jatakas, but the main figure is not Buddha himself. Both are depicted in the same series of reliefs.

• The journeys of Sudhana searching for ultimate truth or Gandavyuha. This is the story told in the final chapter of the Avatamsaka Sutra about Sudhana's tireless wandering in search of the highest perfect wisdom.

The Borobudur Museum

There are two museums located within Borobudur Archaeological Park, the Karmawibhanga Museum and the Samudraraksa Museum. These museums are housed inside the park just a few hundred metres to the north of the temple. These museum ticket are already included within the Borobudur entrance ticket, so visitor are free to enter the museum.

The Samudraraksa Museum display the actual size replica of Borobudur Ship. It also display the maritime technology and trade network of 8th century Asia and Africa, especially the maritime trade of Indian Ocean. In 1982 a British naval history scholar called Philip Beale was visiting Borobudur when he noticed 10 panels depicting ocean-going ships. He surmised that these ships may have been a part of a famous shipping route — the Cinnamon Route — that linked Indonesia to Africa many centuries earlier. This led Beale to build a model ship based on those depictions, and that is now housed in its own dedicated space within the museum.

The Karmawibhanga Museum display archaeological findings around Borobudur, the restoration process, as well as the photographs of Karmawibhanga relief on hidden foot of Borobudur. It does a sometimes haphazard job of presenting the restoration process. Perhaps the most interesting exhibitions about this are those of the law of karma reliefs, with explanatory comments, and the photo gallery of late 19th-century shots of the complex before it was restored.

The museum is open daily 6AM-6PM and entry is included with the main Borobudur ticket.

Around Borobudur

Between Yogyakarta and Magelang lies the volcanic Kedu Plain. This was clearly an important area in pre-10th century Javanese history as it contains a whole host of ruins (both Buddhist and Hindu) dating from the same era as Borobudur, and easily reached from there. If you have a car, the most accessible of these together make an interesting use of the late part of the day on the way back to Yogyakarta after you have seen Borobudur. Alternatively, if you are staying in the Borobudur area, rent a bicycle and explore these temples together with the verdant local countryside.

• Candi Mendut — a Buddhist temple that is thought to have acted as a way-point on the road to Borobudur. It was first discovered in 1834 and holds the distinction of being the first ancient monument in the whole of Indonesia to be restored (from 1897). Some of the statues and reliefs here are of the highest quality, and it is well worth a visit. Mendut is notable as the start of the modern day Waisak procession. From Borobudur head back towards Muntilan on the main road for 3 km (1.8 mi) , and Candi Mendut is signposted off a small left hand turn off the main road.

• Candi Pawon (Branjalan) — is only 2 km (1.25 mi) from Borobudur and you cannot miss driving past it when heading back towards Muntilan and Yogyakarta. It is on a direct line with Borobudur and Mendut and is again thought to have been am ancient way-point. Both Candi Pawon and Candi Mendut are on a perfect straight line with Borobudur. This temple was restored in the early 20th century. 
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• Candi Ngawen — is in Ngawen village just to the south of Muntilan on the main road heading towards Yogyakarta, about 15 km (9 mi) from Borobudur. This Buddhist temple dates from 824 AD, and has some interesting wall reliefs.

• Candi Canggal — dates from the 8th century, and is at Gunung Wukir on the main road heading back towards Yogyakarta from Muntilan. The best landmark is the Chinese cemetery which you should look for on the right after leaving Muntilan. A road leads west (right) just after you pass this cemetery. Follow this until the end and walk the last few minutes to Candi Canggal.

Bali, Island of God Part 2

 

How To Get In

By plane

Most visitors will arrive at Ngurah Rai International Airport (IATA: DPS), also known as Denpasar International Airport. Despite this misleading name, the airport is actually located in Tuban between Kuta and Jimbaran, roughly 30 mins away from Denpasar.
Ngurah Rai is Indonesia's 3rd busiest international airport (after Jakarta and Surabaya) and a major hub well-connected to Australia, South-East Asia, and the rest of Indonesia.

Domestic

A number of domestic airlines operate as LCC - low cost or budget carriers. It is a difficult distinction for some operators as they may be using a low cost model but not promoting or identifying themselves as doing this. Wings Air is a LCC of Lion Air, Citilink is a LCC of Garuda Airlines. Some are smaller regional operators REG or feeder airlines.

• Citilink LCC from Jakarta
• Garuda Indonesia from Jakarta, Mataram, Surabaya, Ujung Pandang (Makassar), Yogyakarta
• Indonesia Air Asia LCC from Bandung, Jakarta, Yogyakarta
• IAT (Indonesia Air Transport) from Mataram, Labuan Bajo
• Lion Air LCC from Jakarta, Jogyakarta (Yogyakarta), Menado, Ujung Pandang (Makassar), Surabaya
• Mandala Airlines LCC  from Jakarta
• Merpati Nusantara Airlines LCC from Bandung, Bima, Ende. Jakarta, Kupang, Lauanbajo, Mataram, Maumere, Surabaya, Tambolaka, Waingapu
• Pelita Air Service Charter 
• Sky Aviation REG  from Banywangi, Labuan Bajo, Mataram
• Sriwijaya Air LCC  from Jakarta
• Travira Air Charter from Benete/Sumbawa
• Trigana REG  from Mataram
• Trans Nusa REG from Bima, Ende, Kupang, Labuanbajo, Mataram, Ruteng, Sumbawa, Tambolaka
• Wings Air REG LCC  (code share Lion AIr) Bima, Kupang, Labuhanbajo, Mataram, Maumere, Semarang, Surabaya, Malang, Tambolaka 

International

A number of International airlines serve this airport including several LCC - low cost or budget carriers

• AirAsia LCC from Kuala Lumpur (operated by (AK) AirAsia Malaysia and (QZ) Indonesia AIrAsia), Singapore, Perth, Darwin (operated by (QZ) Indonesia AIrAsia), Bangkok (operated by (FD) Thai AIrAsia)
• Cathay Pacific from Hong Kong
• Cebu Pacific Air LCC from Manila
• China Airlines  (code share Garuda Airlines) from Taipei
• Eva Air  from Taipei-Taoyuan
• Garuda Indonesia, The major national carrier serving Indonesia from Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Melbourne, Nagoya-Centair, Osaka-Kansai, Perth, Seoul-Incheon
• Hong Kong Express Airways from Hong Kong
• Jetstar LCC from Australia-Brisbane, Darwin, Melbourne, Perth, Sydney, New Zealand
• Jetstar Asia LCC (code share Qantas Airlines, operated by Valuair) from Singapore
• KLM from Amsterdam (via Singapore may be operated by Singapore Airlines or Garuda on the SIN-DPS sector, Amsterdam via Kuala Lumpur (via Kuala Lumpur may be operated by Malaysian Airlines on the KUL-DPS sector)
• Korean Airlines (code share Garuda Airlines) from Seoul (Incheon)
• Malaysia Airlines (code share Garuda Airlines, KLM) from Kuala Lumpur
• Merpati Nusantara Airlines LCC from Dili
• Philippine Airlines from Manila
• Qantas Airlines (operated by Jetstar, Jetstar Asia and Valuair) from Singapore, Australia, New Zealand
• Qatar Airways from Doha and Singapore
• Shanghai Airlines from Shanghai
• Singapore Airlines from Singapore
• SkyWest from Port Hedland Australia
• Strategic Airlines from Australia-Brisbane, Perth, Port Hedland, Townsville
• Thai AirAsia from Bangkok-Suvarnabhumi International
• Thai Airways International from Bangkok-Suvarnabhumi
• Transaero from Moscow-Domodedovo
• Valuair LCC (operated by Jetstar Asia) from Singapore
• Uni Air (charter flights) from Kaohsiung
• Virgin Australia LCC (operated by Pacific Blue) from Australia- Adelaide, Brisbane, Melbourne, Perth, Sydney 

International arrivals procedures

All passports must be valid for a minimum of 6 months from the date of entry into Indonesia and have at least 2 blank pages available for stamps.
There are three ways of entering Indonesia:

• Visa on arrival. Pay on arrival, get a visa in your passport, get it stamped. Most visitors fall in this category.
• Visa in advance. Obtain a visa at an Indonesian embassy before arrival.
• Visa waiver. Show your passport, get stamped, that's it. Applies only to a few select, mostly ASEAN countries.

Visitors arriving in Bali by air from a point of origin outside Indonesia will be clearing customs and immigration at Bali's Ngurah Rai International Airport may require the purchase of a visa on arrival (VOA). As of January 2010, the only type of visa on arrival available is US$25.00 for 30 days. This may be extended later at the local Immigration office for a further once only period of up to 30 days. (The previous 7 day visa on arrival is no longer available). Exact change in dollars is recommended, although a selection of other major currencies including rupiah are accepted, and any change will usually be given in rupiah. Credit cards are accepted in Bali (but don't count on the service working). See the main Indonesia article for more details.

Arriving passengers are passed through VOA (visa on arrival) issuance if applicable, then subsequently processed through immigration clearance channels for VOA, Non VOA (if the visa has been obtained prior to the time of departure), Visa waiver (for eligible nationalities) and a separate channel for Indonesian passport holders. Baggage retrieval is followed by customs and quarantine examinations including baggage X-ray checkpoints.

Tourism visit visas can be issued in advance at some Indonesian embassies prior to departure. Check well in advance of your proposed departure date at the Indonesian embassy or consulate in your home country.

Citizens holding passports from Brunei, Chile, Ecuador, Hong Kong SAR (Special Administrative Region), Macau SAR (Special Administrative Region), Malaysia, Morocco, Peru, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam are eligible for the Visa waiver program and do not require visas to enter and remain for 30 days within Indonesia. These visas cannot be extended or converted to another type of visa.

Bali, The Island of God Part 1

Bali, the famed Island of the Gods, with its varied landscape of hills and mountains, rugged coastlines and sandy beaches, lush rice terraces and barren volcanic hillsides all providing a picturesque backdrop to its colourful, deeply spiritual and unique culture, stakes a serious claim to be paradise on earth. With world-class surfing and diving, a large number of cultural, historical and archaeological attractions, and an enormous range of accommodations, this is one of the world's most popular island destinations and one which consistently wins travel awards. Bali has something to offer a very broad market of visitors from young back-packers right through to the super-rich.

Recommended Destination in Bali :

1. Denpasar — a bustling city, the administrative centre and transport hub of the island but not a major tourist destination 
2. Candidasa — a quiet coastal town, the Bali Aga and gateway to the east coast
3. Kuta — surfer central, by far the most heavily developed area in Bali. Lots of shopping and night-life and the centre of lower-end party culture on Bali
4. Jimbaran — sea-side resorts, a nice sheltered beach and seafood restaurants south of Kuta
5. Legian — located between Kuta and Seminyak; also the name of Kuta´s main street
6. Lovina — beautiful black volcanic sand beaches and coral reefs
7. Padang Bai — a relaxed traditional fishing village with some touristic options. Great place to enjoy the beach, snorkelling, diving and eating fish.
8. Sanur — sea-side resorts and beaches popular with older families
9. Seminyak — quieter, more upscale beachside resorts and villas just to the north of Legian, with some fashionable upscale restaurants and trendy designer bars and dance clubs
10. Ubud — the centre of art and dance in the foothills, with several museums, the monkey forest and lots of arts and crafts shops 
11. Amed — an area of peaceful, traditional fishing villages featuring black sand beaches, coral reefs and excellent diving
12. Bedugul — nice lakes in the mountains, a golf course, the botanical gardens and the famous Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
13. Bukit Peninsula — the southernmost tip of Bali, with world class surfing, great beaches, and the can't-miss cliff-hanging Uluwatu Temple
14. Kintamani — active volcano Mount Batur, great mountain scenery, cooler temperatures and fruit growing
15. Mount Agung — highest mountain in Bali and the mother temple of Besakih
16. Nusa Dua — an enclave of high-end resorts and a long, golden sand beach
17. Nusa Lembongan — good diving, snorkelling and surfing and a great place to relax
18. Nusa Penida — wild, rugged and untamed and as off-the-beaten-path as you will get in Bali
19. West Bali National Park — trekking, bird watching and diving in Bali's only substantial natural protected area 

FESTIVAL

There are an estimated 20,000 temples (pura) on the island, each of which holds festivals (odalan) at least twice yearly. With many other auspicious days throughout the year there are always festivities going on.
The large island-wide festivals are determined by two local calendars. The 210 day wuku or Pawukon calendar is completely out of sync with the western calendar, meaning that it rotates wildly throughout the year. The lunar saka (caka) calendar roughly follows the western year.

• Funerals (pitra yadnya) are another occasion of pomp and ceremony, when the deceased (often several at a time) are ritually cremated in extravagantly colorful rituals (ngaben).

• Galungan is a 10 day festival which comes around every 210 days and celebrates the death of the tyrant Mayadenawa. Gods and ancestors visit earth and are greeted with gift-laden bamboo poles called penjor lining the streets. The last day of the festival is known as Kuningan.

• Nyepi, or the Hindu New Year, also known as the day of absolute silence, is usually in March or April (next on March 23, 2012). If you are in Bali in the days preceding Nyepi, you will see amazing colorful giants (ogoh ogoh) being created by every banjar. On the eve of Nyepi, the ogoh ogoh are paraded through the streets, an amazing sight which is not to be missed. There are good reasons to avoid Nyepi as well, but for many visitors these will be outweighed by the privilege of experiencing such a unique festival. On Nyepi absolutely everything on the island is shut down between 6AM on the day of the new year and 6AM the following morning. Tourists are confined to their hotels and asked to be as quiet as possible for the day. After dark, light must be kept to a bare minimum. No one is allowed onto the beaches or streets. The only exceptions granted are for real emergency cases. The airport remains closed for the entire day, which means no flights into or out of Bali for 24 hr. Ferry harbours are closed as well. As the precise date of Nyepi changes every year, and isn’t finally set until later in the year before, flights will be booked by airlines for this day in case you book early. When the date is set, and as it gets closer, the airlines will alter their bookings accordingly. This may mean that you have to alter your accommodation bookings if your flight has been bought forward or back to cater for Nyepi day.