Gili Trawangan : The Perfect Escape

Gili Trawangan (Terawangan), or simply Gili T, is the largest and most visited of the three Gili Islands off Lombok.

This is the largest of the three Gili Islands with an estimated permanent population of about 800.

Trawangan was the first of the three islands to attract visitors in any numbers, and it was backpackers who led the way. In the 1990s the island developed a reputation as a wild party destination with cheap accommodation, no police, plentiful weed and mushrooms, and readily available harder drugs. Whilst that is still partially the case, Trawangan has matured into a destination that has a far wider appeal.

The thriving dive industry of the Gili Islands is centred here (although some operators have outposts on the other two islands), and since about 2005, the island has gone through a massive development boom, and a number of upscale sleeping, eating and drinking establishments have opened. Any visitor to Trawangan should be prepared for a real mish-mash of fellow travellers; some will be ensconced in US$400 per night, unashamedly Bali-style villas, while others would be quite happy to kip on the beach after a tough day on the mushies.

Gili Trawangan is the centre of a thriving dive industry for the Gili Islands. All of the operators have their main dive shops located here. There are about a dozen active dive sites, and all of the shops run a regularly rotating program of daily fun dives to one of more of these.

Fun dives, muckdiving, technical diving and wreck dives are a staple and Gili Trawangan is well known as a world class teaching centre. The operators are very professional, the warm waters offering a wide range of easy to challenging dive sites (including some with fairly strong currents), and the visibility usually good. Gili T makes for an ideal teaching environment, whether you are a first timer, or a diver looking to extend your qualifications.

Freedive Gili is located close to the harbour on Gili Trawangan, and offers freedive and apnea (breath holding) courses for beginners to advanced. It is the only freedive centre in the region and is owned and operated by British freedive record holder Mike Board.

Gili Yoga center shares an office with Freedive Gili and boasts its very own Yoga pavillion. Daily Yoga classes are given in the warm open air, surrounded by a tropical garden and the sounds of nature. Gili yoga offer services including: Daily meditation and pranayama, twice daily yoga practice, luxury accommodation, group activities (snorkeling, sunset boat ride) and gourmet vegetarian food.

Snorkelling

The easiest spot to find some productive snorkelling is off the main beach, north of the boat landing. Enter the water approximately in front of the Almarik hotel. If you start north of the beach (about where you can see seaweeds growing at low tide roughly level with Gili Meno's northern extent), and go with the current back towards to the most crowded sunbathing area, you will likely need to kick only when you want to stop to look at something. The healthy corals are around the area where the wall drops off and the deeper water begins. Nearer the shore you will find only dead coral. Turtles can be seen often, and also the occasional trigger fish amongst the more common reef inhabitants. At low tide it is difficult to get in without reef shoes. Always watch out for potential waves that can push you into the coral that are just below water level.

A better coral reef is off the northwest coast, but you have to be very keen to go through the hardship of getting out there. The only access to the reef involves walking over a substantial area of dead, sharp coral, and back again when you have finished. If you are a keen snorkeller the effort is worth it, and you are very likely to have the waters to yourself.

Small, purple jellyfish are sometimes plentiful around the island, and they seem to love stinging snorkellers. The reaction is one of considerable irritation, but the stings cause no serious harm.

Boat Trips

There are a few companies based on Gili Trawangan that offer boat trips to the surrounding islands of Lombok, Sumbawa and to Komodo.

Blue Water Cruises are based just north of the harbour and run trips around the 3 Gilis, to Lombok and Komodo.

South Sea Nomads South Sea Nomads have 2 bases on Gili T, one at Gili Hostel and another at Manta Dive. They offer Sunset Party Boats around the 3 Gilis, 2 night trips to Sekotong and Desert Point for island hopping, snorkelling, diving and surfing Lomboks most famous break, Desert Point. They also run a 5 night trip to Moyo and Satonda where they visit waterfalls, a sunken volcano, caves, a crater lake, deserted beaches and uninhabited islands, stunning reefs and a WW2 wreck. Their boat is also available for private sunset charters and private day charters around the 3 Gilis for groups of up to 30 people.

Perama are based near the art market on the main beach road. They offer trips all around Indonesia as well as trips from Bali to the Gilis and Komodo.

Surfing

Gili Trawangan has a fast right hander which can really pump with the right conditions. The best waves are at high tide, and the underlying reef can be sharp so booties can come in handy. The surf break is off the south coast - just follow the locals who will be out and jogging with their boards whenever the surf is decent. You will find no shortage of locals eady, willing and able to rent you board. There are a few breaks off Gili Air and Gili Meno, but they are more difficult to reach and smaller. The best season is the January-June wet season, with swells from 1-2 m. Daily conditions can be checked out at Magic Seaweed

Walking

There are some lovely walks to be had on the island, although the perimeter coastal track is perhaps not as scenic as those on Gili Meno and Gili Air. A leisurely stroll all the way around will take 90-120 minutes, depending on just how leisurely you are.

The hill in the south can be easily reached by taking one of the tracks that lead west or southwest from the back of the village. Dawn and dusk are the best times to climb up here. The sunset views back towards Bali are quite lovely, and in the mornings the sun rises over majestic Mount Rinjani on Lombok. On the top of the hill lie the remains of a World War II Japanese gun bunker.

Mount Rinjani : The True Beautiful of Nature

Mount Rinjani (Gunung Rinjani) is an active volcano in Lombok, Indonesia.

At 3,726 m, Rinjani is the second highest volcano in Indonesia, second only to Mount Kerinci on Sumatra, and it dominates the landscape of the relatively small island of Lombok.

Within its huge 50 km² caldera sits the crater lake Segara Anak (Child of the Sea). Eruptions within the caldera have formed a new small cone called appropriately enough, Gunung Baru (New Mountain). Segara Anak has a natural hot spring.

The mountain and its satellites form the Mount Rinjani National Park (Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani)- officially 41,000 hectares within the park boundaries and a further 66,000 hectares of protected forest outside.

In 2008, the Indonesian government proposed to UNESCO that Mount Rinjani be one of the world's official geoparks. If this was approved by UNESCO, Mount Rinjani would become the first such geological park in Indonesia.

Things must See :

• Segara Anak, the crater lake

• Aik Kalak hot springs, at the crater rim

• The Mulang Pakelem. This annual Hindu ceremony at the crater lake dates from the 18th century invasion of Lombok by Balinese from the kingdom of Karangasem and attracts hundreds of participants. The lake is sacred to Hindus and the sight of hundreds of white clad Hindu pilgrims sitting and praying here is a wonderfully uplifting experience.

• Gua Susu (Susu Cave). One of the three famous caves (Gua Susu, Gua Payung, dan Gua Manik) at Rinjani

Climbing Mount Rinjani

The Basic

At 3,726 m, Rinjani is the second highest volcano in Indonesia after Sumatra's Gunung Kerinci. It is very climbable by visitors with a high level of physical fitness. Critical is to understand and respect this great mountain: sadly, visitors have died here through failing to follow sensible procedures and make all necessary preparations.

Few actually make the very strenuous effort required to reach the actual summit but instead stop at the crater rim (approx 2,700 m) where the views of the crater lake are mind blowing. To make the extra 1,000 m ascent to the very top requires a considerably higher level of fitness, not to mention strength of spirit and sense of adventure.
 
Typically, a trek to the crater rim involves two days and one night on the mountain. The longer ascent to the summit can be done with just one night's camping but is often part of a longer trek of 3-4 days and two or three nights.

The current park entrance fee is Rp 150,000. Of this 13% is allocated to the Gunung Rinjani National Park, 62% to the Rinjani Trek Ecotourism Program and 25% to support the Rinjani Trek operation and maintenance program. 
 
An organised trek is by far the easiest, safest and most popular option but it is also quite possible to make all of your own arrangements and just hire a guide and equipment from one of the trekking centres on the mountain. Rinjani Park regulations stipulate the use of a certified guide so even the most experienced and well prepared mountaineers will still need to climb Rinjani with the services of a professional guide. The mountains Licensed Guide Association (HPI) issues certification to the Rinjani guides and porters but it should be understood that the certification standards and required training are no where near as rigorous as would be expected in many other countries. Serious accidents including fatalities do occur on Rinjani treks when led by these accredited guides.

Proper sturdy climbing/hiking boots are an absolute necessity as is a substantial waterproof, windproof jacket, and a head lamp. If you are going to the top, use of poles (walking sticks) for getting through the scree (loose rock) at the top are also highly recommended. By 2,000 m, you will feel like you are not in the tropics any more as rising wet, hot air loses its temperature and may fall as rain. If inappropriate clothing becomes wet difficulties will set in as air temperatures towards the summit are as low as 4⁰C, often with a significant extra wind chill factor. You must prepare accordingly.

Guides and trekking providers

At times it seems that everyone in Lombok is a trekking guide for Mount Rinjani, especially on the main tourist strip in Senggigi.

Take most of what you are told with a pinch of salt and you will find the most experienced and reputable guides at the main trekking centres at Senaru and Sembalun Lawang. It does happen that tourists who are highly experienced hikers or climbers may find themselves far better prepared and skilled for mountain conditions than the local guides. Codes of conduct have been developed for the local trekking support community that include climbing safety, environmental awareness and responsible use. Some of the guides and trekking organisations are better than others at respecting these agreements and guidelines. It is also a good idea to independently check for any volcanic alerts that may have been issued for Mount Rinjani.

Many visitors have found it is preferable to avoid package deals purchased away from Senaru, and instead negotiate either with one of the trekking providers listed below or with the guides themselves to ensure that they are actually competent. If there is a problem, you can then find a different guide company in Senaru or Sembalun.

To help you judge the experience, abilities and equipment provision of a potential guide and support team it may assist to consider the following:

• preparation for rain squalls such as waterproof covers for equipment and supplies, personal raincoats or emergency ponchos
• ensuring that all trek participants are provided with clothing suitable to the conditions and provided with a thermally protective layer such as polypropylene
• first aid equipment and training including treatment for exposure, provision of supplies such as emergency splints for fractures and space blankets
• provision of a trowel or fold-away shovel for burying human waste and the provision of toilet paper
• if the guide team are cooking or handling food are they going to wash and clean their hands, all plates and utensils using detergent/soap
• ensure that the guides and porters understand how to pitch their supplied tents and can demonstrate that the tents are complete.
• ensure it is demonstrated that the tents can be pitched using adequate pegs and with the fly sheets secured away from the tent so that moisture does not seep in even if it is windy and raining.
• provision of a route map detailing emergency assembly points and demonstrate a capacity to communicate a position to a rescue party
• that an emergency management plan is in place in case of accident or other emergency during the climb
• availability of a working mobile phone for emergency calls and provision of a SIM card that has sufficient credit to deal with communications in an emergency
• availability of a serviceable VHF hand held radio with two fully charged batteries and a capacity to use it in case of emergency.
• availability of a satellite phone in serviceable condition, in service, with active network reception and supplied with a fully charged battery

Mobile phone reception is good on the entire mountain except within the crater.
Guide fees are generally negotiable. Only the Rp 150,000 park entrance fee is set by the park authority. A sensible package price range would be:

• 2 days, 1 night trek to the crater rim only: Rp 1,500,000-2,000,000 per person.
• 4 days, 3 night trek: Rp 2,500,000-3,000,000. 

These trekking fees will vary though according to how busy the guides are, how many people are in your party and if a commission is due to a referring person or agency. Some guide companies will charge as little as Rp 900,000 per person for a 2-night trek in the off-season, but it is important to check they are properly experienced, equipped and provisioned. Ensure your trek price is all-inclusive of any extra charges for transportation, provisions, porter fees and the park entrance fees.

For the sake of future generations, please check that your trekking operator adheres to the 'pack it in / pack it out' policy for litter, and ask all your participants to take responsibility for collecting their own litter and carrying it out.

Toba Lake : The Greatest Lake Who Brought Ice Age

Lake Toba (Danau Toba) is the largest volcanic lake in the world and is in Sumatra, Indonesia.
Samosir island within the lake is an island within the island of Sumatra.

Lake Toba is an immense volcanic lake covering an area of 1,707 km² (1,000 km² bigger than Singapore) with an island in its centre.

Formed by a gigantic volcanic eruption some 70,000 years ago, it is probably the largest resurgent caldera on Earth. Some studies say it might have been associated with causing previous ice age/climate change and the largest human population bottleneck ever. Genetic estimates suggests that there were only a few thousand individuals that survived its catastrophic eruption.

The island in the middle - Pulau Samosir - was joined to the caldera wall by a narrow isthmus, which was cut through to enable boats to pass; a road bridge crosses the cutting. Samosir island is the cultural centre of the Batak tribe who are now mostly Christians.

Lake Toba was perhaps once more popular than it is nowadays, but for many it remains a firm fixture on the Banana Pancake Trail. It is a great laid back place to chill out for a few days after jungle trekking etc. The location is very popular with Chinese tourists around Chinese New Year, when availability drops dramatically and accommodation costs sky rocket.

How to Get In

Most visitors fly to Medan Polonia International Airport and then travel onwards by land to Parapat, the town by Lake Toba. Parapat is about 4 hr by car from Medan or 4-6 hr by public bus.

You can also go from Berastagi or Bukit Lawang to Parapat.

As of Sep 2012 here is only one Cirrus/MasterCard ATM on the island (at the white beach entrance) so you should get enough cash at Parapat before crossing the lake to the island. This ATM DOES NOT ACCEPT VISA Cards. So please ensure you take sufficient cash from the many ATMs in Parapat before you come to Samosir.
  
By Car

The road signs are pretty much useless, as is asking the locals for directions. Anyway, if you are going to Tuk Tuk keep going, even though it may seem to be taking forever and you have been in the Kijang for 8 hr with 10 other people, but you will get there and the hosts will be wonderful.
Do not try to drive out of Samosir Island by going up and over the top to the land bridge. The road is very bad.

It is also possible to go to Parapat from Dumai by mini-van, leaving in the afternoon. The trip takes around 11 hr and costs Rp 150,000.

By Bus

You can get from Medan airport to Lake Toba entirely by public transport if you wish. First, you must go from the airport to Amplas bus terminal. Walk through the car park and go out of the main car exit of the airport. Cross the road and turn left after the petrol station, and then turn right (about a 10-15 min walk altogether). There, you can catch a yellow public bus, number 64, or number 63, to Amplas Terminal for Rp 3,000.

From Amplas terminal, you can get a public bus to Parapat for Rp 25,000. So you can get from Medan airport to Parapat for a total of Rp 28,000 (June 2013), and then get a ferry out to Samosir island for Rp 10,000/person. The boat drops you at your hotel.

By Train

Another great way to get to Lake Toba is by train. Two or three trains leave each day in that direction and you want to get off either at Pematang Siantar or Tebing Tinggi (The train stops at one or the other).

If you want to get to the train directly from Medan airport, get a taxi or becak, and tell them or write Lapangan Merdeka and Setasiun Kereta Api Medan. From the station there's only 2 trains leaving Medan to Permatang Siantar (or Siantar) at 11:00 and 19:25. The fare is Rp 30,000 per person (as per 16June13) and the journey takes approximately 3-4 hr. Trains stop at almost each station. Once you reach the Siantar station double check the schedule for the train for going back to Medan. Then take a Becak or walk to the bus/taxi hub to travel to Perapat. The train is a wonderful way to travel if you like to learn more culture on their daily living and lifestyle. Once you are in your seat and have a stream of buskers, food vendors and friendly local passing by you will know why this is often the best way to travel overland. From Siantar (1 hr by taxi) or Tebing Tinggi (2 hr taxi) you will need to hire a taxi or a bus for road transport to Parapat.

 By Ferry

Parapat is connected to Tomok and Tuk Tuk on the Samosir Island by a ferry that runs every hour for Rp 10,000, the last one at 19:00. The place to catch the ferry to Tuk Tuk is called "Tiga Raja" harbour/jetty. The ferry man will drop you at the place you're staying at in Tuk Tuk. Try to use the ferry with a wooden bench inside and that's coloured light green. Those are the ferries that charge Rp 10,000 and that the locals take to cross over. Tuk Tuk is the main town to stay on Samosir. Use the boat service not the large ferry, they will drop you directly at your Tuk Tuk resort.

The ferry ride over is fantastic, just truly peaceful, apart from the car radios playing, the ladies selling peanuts, bottled water, mie or pretty much anything else. Normally some of the passengers and vendors will be able to speak English. Landing at the other end of the 1 hour ferry journey is daunting, but again, behave like everyone else in Indonesia and just push, ever so politely, but firmly and eventually you will get off the ferry and onto the main road. Alternatively use the boat service but watch out for the guys that ask for the fee before you embark — they do not work for the operators, you pay on the boat.

By Air

From Medan Polonia airport you can fly directly to Silangit with Susi Air daily. Flights take approximately 30 min and are a safer way than the road trip. In Feb 2013, the flight cost Rp 425,000, (c. US$42) one way. Transportation options from Silangit airport are limited; it is a good idea to pre-arrange a driver to be waiting; From Silangit Airport to Parapat is 2 hr drive. To Silangit airport from Parapat there are many transport providers available around the ferry terminal area. Costs to/from Silangit and Parapat should cost around Rp 300,000 each way per vehicle.

Recomended See and Do

There are hot springs on the western side of the island just across the causeway from Pangururan. The water is hot. Locals usually use their hands to get some water out of the pool, standing in the pool is possible, but you probably won't be able to swim. The fee to enter to the surroundings is Rp 2,000. The pools are free, there's some special foreigner pool for Rp 10,000.

Kick back and relax after the frenetic atmosphere of Indonesia. Swim in the volcanically warmed waters of the lake or arrange an overnight 'party' boat out on the lake if you can get enough volunteers together. A beautiful place to do nothing at all. Plenty of second hand book shops to stock up on reading material. Traditional Batak Dance in Restaurant Bagus Bay every Wednesday and Saturday from 20:15 onwards. After the dance, sit back and enjoy the folk songs done by a group of men. 

Itineraries

• Samosir - Many Big Statues as Cemeteries for Batak people ancestors

• Samosir, Simanindo - Batak Museum with traditional dance performed twice daily

• Samosir, Ambarita - Stone chairs used for judgement and executions

• Samosir, Tomok - Good place for locals and foreigner to shop for souvenirs. vegetable and fruits. There's a tomb for you to visit as well.

• Just on the other side of Samosir, near Pangururan are hot springs

• From Tuk tuk you can see a waterfall up the mountain behind you. It's a great walk with a rewarding fresh swim.

Bunaken National Park : Dive, Dive, and Dive!!!

 


Bunaken National Marine Park is off the coast of Northern Sulawesi, Indonesia.

Bunaken is one of Indonesia's most famous diving and snorkeling areas and it draws visitors from all over the world. In addition to banana-shaped Bunaken Island itself, the 890 km2 of marine national park includes the neighboring islands of Manado Tua (a distinctive cone-shaped extinct volcano), Siladen, Mantehage, Nain, and Nain Kecil.
 
Some 20,000 local inhabitants make their living from the waters in the Bunaken National Marine Park, and this has inevitably led to some conflicts. By and large though, the co-operation between national and local government authorities, conservation groups, business owners and local communities has been very successful here. This has led many to cite Bunaken as a model example of how Indonesia should be preserving its natural marine treasures.

The park is famed for the clarity of its water (35m visibility is common in the summer dry season), the abundance of coral and fish, and for the precipitous "walls" at some sites. Bunaken Timur, right off the east coast of the island and featuring all of the above, is rated by many as the single best dive site in all Indonesia.

In places the water is extremely deep - 1,500 m plus.

Bunaken has a quite stunning biodiversity including:

• No less than 70 different genera of coral
• five species of sea turtle
• an extraodinary range of fish - 70% of all fish species that exist in the Indo-Western Pacific Ocean are found here
• white tip and black tip reef-sharks are common
• wonderful resident dugongs
• barracuda and tuna make regular appearences from more pelagic waters
• occasionally saltwater crocodiles 

Bunaken is about 45 to 60 minutes by boat from Manado.

Most resorts will arrange transfers from the airport for their guests.

Alternatively, a public boat leaves daily except Sundays at 2-3PM from the canal on the north side of Manado market. The cost is Rp 25,000 one way for tourists and Rp 10,000 for locals. It returns to Manado from the jetty in Bunaken village around 8-8:30AM every morning except on Sundays.

You also can charter a private boat to bunaken in the Manado harbor (behind the Celebes Hotel).

Tourism on Bunaken has been very much geared towards serious divers over the years but the trend seems to be changing. More and more casual snorkelers are visiting the area as are those who wish to just relax immersed in nature. Possible activities for landlubbers include:

• Beach-combing, especially at low tide when the reef top is accessible.

• Hiking to some of the secluded coves on the eastern and northern part of the island. Trails are poorly marked.

• Fishing, but only outside of the park boundaries. Hire a boat or join one of the local fishermen.

• Dolphin & Whale watching, either on diveboat trips or by hiring a boat privately. 

The thing to do in Bunaken is dive, dive and dive. However, the steep walls and occasionally strong, rapidly changing currents mean that many sites cater more to the intermediate/advanced diver. There are beginner-friendly sites too and all dive shops can arrange introduction dives and Open Water Dive courses.

The North Sulawesi Watersports Association offers oodles of detail on diving in the park.

All dive shops in the park are affiliated with resorts.

Snorkelling is fantastic in front of many of the resorts around the island, with an incredible amount of marine life inhabiting the shallows. Remember not to snorkel without fins as the currents can sometimes be strong and change quickly even when they are not. Pick a reference point on the island and do not stray too far unless you are a very confident swimmer.

Extremely Beautiful Beach in Karimun Jawa

Karimunjawa is a chain of 27 islands north of Semarang, off the coast of Central Java, Indonesia.

Designated as a national marine park. Karimunjawa consists of many small islands, with the two main ones being Karimunjawa island and Kemujan Island, and the smaller ones being Menjangan Besar Island, and Menjangan Kecil Island and some other even smaller, uninhabited islands. 

Karimunjawa and Kemujan Islands are like saimese twins. A short bridge connects the two and they may be thought of as just one island.

Karimunjawa Island is the larger and is quite hilly and steep in places. The highest peak is about 330 metres, with a dozen other peaks of 150 metres or more. Karimunjawa also has the larger population. The main, and virtually the only, village is situated on a point on the south-west coast of Karimunjawa Island. There are many beautiful beaches with clean, white sand. Much of the island has fringing reefs.

Kemujan Island has lower evevation and is undulating. The 900 metre airstrip (elev. 10 metres) is located on Kemujan Island, 18 km north-east of the village. There are some mangrove forrests fringing Kemujan Island in places. There are also fringing reefs in many locations around the island.

The smaller, outer islands are low lying and have pristine, white sandy beaches. 

One can find various kinds of sea animals, like turtles, sharks, and fish, in the sea around Karimunjawa. On the land, especially in Karimunjawa island and Kemujan island, one can find many kinds of birds, deer, and even snakes.

Flora Wirintina reportedly spent time here on summer vacation with some close family members during the summer of 2013. Locals say the media's coverage of her time here has boosted the islands reputation and they expect tourists to flock in their numbers to the island in the near future in an effort to follow in her footsteps.

There are chartered planes from Semarang that fly from Semarang to Dewandaru Airport in Kemujan island. The airstrip has a sealed 900 metre runway.

There is a regular ferry that sails from Tanjung Emas (port) in Semarang and Jepara to Karimunjawa Island. about the Karimunjawa service. The slower, but comfortable, barge service operates out of Japara.

In Karimunjawa and Kemujan island, you can rent a car, motorcycle or even a bicycle. To get to the other near-by islands however, you need to rent a local boat for about Rp 200,000/day. Inter-island transportation can also be booked at the following link, where you can also view timetables.

Note: For one or two people, a motorbike would usually do, but if you're not familiar with motorcycles and would rather rent a car, it might be a good idea to book a rental car before you arrive in Karimunjawa, because there are very few cars on the island.